日本电子维修技术 硬盘开盘资料

1) I take absolutely no responsibility for any damage accrued to any piece of hardware while attempting this procedure. It is 100% completely at your own risk. Opening the drive WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY!

The likelihood of success is STILL UNKNOWN since I have yet to receive a new controller. However, if you read on, you may come to realize the feasibility of such a task. If anyone has a Maxtor d540x-4k020h1 and is willing to sell it, please email me - Thank You.

2) Opening a hard disk and exposing it to the air may cause permanent damage to the data stored within.

3) The alignment of the permanent magnets may pose an issue. They need to be aligned exactly right. Take notice of the upper magnets position before you unscrew it.

Problem Description:

A friend of mine who runs a decent size manufacturing company had kept various pieces of data on this drive. Being only one year old, and part of his Dell computer, he never thought twice to back anything up.

Needless to say, the drive crashed without warning. Under close observation, I noticed that the drive didn't spin when powered up.

It seemed that either the controller was damaged, or the spindle motor had possibly burned out.

The data wasn't critical and most of it just needed to be typed back in. The finances weren't available to send the drive out to a data recovery center, their work often costs between $1500 to $5000 dollars USD. He had decided to forget about it unless a less expensive alternative could be found.

I was definitely up to the challenge; especially knowing there was nothing to lose.

Troubleshooting:

I began by inspecting the controller for obvious damage (i.e. burnt parts etc). At this time, I was unable to see a problem. However, I did remember that the drive did jitter when power was first applied, so I knew there was power on the spindle motor, at least for part of a second.

Furthermore, if power was present on the spindle motor, and it jittered momentarily then stopped, then the motor was either stuck, or perhaps the applied voltage had dropped.

I briefly opened the drive just to ensure the spindle motor wasn't jammed. It wasn't.

Then I closed the drive and began to troubleshoot an electrical problem. I removed the controller board from the drive and systematically masked off with masking tape the 20 pins or so between the controller and the internals of the hard drive.

After trying several pins, I managed to discover a pin which in fact, when covered (and the controller back on the board) allowed the drive to spin up properly. Unfortunately, the drive would not be detected by the BIOS, nor did there appear to be any head control. The drive would spin then slam the head side to side against the head stop inside the drive. This was definitely not good.

It seemed this pin had some vital role in controlling the head movements. After re-opening the drive, I traced the faulty pin to its destination, a small chip on the side of the armature carrying the head.



There was no way I could repair this - UNLESS...

Solution:

Cannibalize parts from another hard drive to get the first one functional.

I purchased an identical drive on eBay. However, I first tried the easy way out. I moved the new controller on to the old drive and powered it up.

BIG MISTAKE. The new controller immediately cooked itself. Now I was definitely sure that the chip mounted on the side of the head armature was directly responsible for dropping the voltage applied to the spindle motor. I imagine this pin shorts the controller which then stops applying voltage to the spindle motor. So I was exactly back where I began except that now I had two burned controllers.

I decided to do what had to be done and move the head from the good drive to the old drive. Moving the platters seemed impossible and obtaining the right tools would not be easy.

Required Tools:

Needle Nose Pliers.
Philips Head Screw Driver.
Small Flat Head Screw Driver
T9 Torx Head Screw Driver.
General Tips Before Starting:

Attempt to work in the cleanest area possible. A garage is usually not a good choice.
While working within the drive, work slowly and carefully. Be sure not to touch the platters with your fingers or tools! This will most likely damage the data on them.
The goal is to remove the heads from the good drive and then later transplanting them into the broken drive. Again, we are moving the heads since the bad chip is affixed to the head armature which directly connects to the actual read / write head. Since there is little chance of removing the chip successfully, I am attempting to move the entire head / arm mechanism instead.
Procedure:

·  First, remove the screws holding the controller board to the back of the drive.


The controller is the green thing

·  Pull the controller off.


Drive with controller off

·  Flip the drive over.


Time to unscrew

·  Remove the Philips head screws holding the drive cover in place. There are two T9 screws under the stickers, the hold the top of the spindle head armature bearings in place. Remove them. Remove any additional screws holding down the cover until the cover becomes loose.


Don't worry about the print, you'll get a closeup later

·  Take the cover off of the drive and set it aside.

·  Remove the two screws holding the pin bracket that attaches through the casing to the back side of the controller. Do not try to remove this yet.

·  Remove the single screw holding down the top magnet above the head armature.


Here's your closeup

·  VERY CAREFULLY, use a small flat head screw driver to pry the magnet off of its seat.


"Will this erase the charges on my credit card?"

WARNING! These magnets are very strong. Do not allow them to get any closer to the platters than they are while positioned in their mounting places. THIS WILL DESTROY any data on the platters!

·  Set the magnet down away from the drive and prepare your needle noise pliers. . . .

The next step is to remove the head locking mechanism.



·  Carefully squeeze this piece of plastic gently, but use a moderate amount of force to lift it off its mounting pin. It takes some effort, but it will come right up. Be careful! Both this plastic device as well as the one in the next step are both very fragile and can break easily if squeezed too hard!

·  Next, remove the head stop mechanism, located as shown in the picture just above. Again, squeeze gently and lift it straight off of the pin.

·  Gently slide the head off the platter. It will sit nicely in the air without the platter underneath it. DO NOT touch the heads with your fingers or any other material. This may damage them.


·  Now, prevent the head from moving by holding your finger above the bearing on top.


Giving it the finger

·  While doing this, turn the drive over. You will see a Torx screw just below the head (below the controller you removed). Remove this screw carefully. This is the last screw holding the heads into the drive chassis.

·  Lift the head straight out of the chassis. When it is clear, gently pull on the connection block you removed the screws from earlier. It will lift straight out of the chassis with the heads.


Getting (hard drive) head


This is what's left

·  Take a deep breath, you are half way there. Now, do the exact same procedure to the drive with the bad heads.

Once both sets of heads have been removed, simply put the good set of heads in the old drive chassis. The installation process is very similar to the removal process.

When you insert new heads into the old chassis, be sure to screw the bottom of the head armature in while the heads are not over the disk.

Then gently lift on the arm carrying each head (in this case there was only one) to slide it back over the disk. At this point you should test the arm by swinging it back and forth very slowly and carefully. It should not drag on the disk whatsoever.

Reinsert the drive stop and head lock, and then the permanent magnet.

Re-close the case, and screw the controller back on. Now you should be finished! Plug the drive in and you should be set to go.

Final Caveats

This is a last-ditch means to get data out, and you shouldn't count on this working. If you absolutely, positively MUST get that data out or you'll lose thousands and thousands of dollars, look at a data recovery center.

If the data isn't worth THAT much, and you've exhausted all lesser options, you might want to try this, but there's a lot of things that can go wrong, and there's no guarantee or even probablility everything will be OK if you do this.

It's an interesting project, though.

Having worked for a major hard drive manufacturer repairing damaged/destroyed hard drives for a living, I have one small note about the procedure taken to repair the drive:

The read/write heads are more sensitive than can possibly imagined. There is a term that should be introduced here: Head Slap.

Sounds like the heads smacking together violently, but its much less than that. If the top and bottom heads for a single double sided platter ever touch, they are damaged to some degree. Now here's the fun part: You may not actually damage the reading/writing element, as they are the size of a spec of dust in the middle of each head. However, the heads are made of a silicon material, much like IC chips. 电路 电子 维修 求创维42c08RD电路图 评论 电视的图纸很少见 评论 电视的图纸很少见 评论 创维的图纸你要说 版号，不然无能为力 评论 板号5800-p42ALM-0050 168P-P42CLM-01 电路 电子 维修 我现在把定影部分拆出来了。想换下滚，因为卡纸。但是我发现灯管挡住了。拆不了。不会拆。论坛里的高手拆解过吗？ 评论 认真看，认真瞧。果然有收
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